Monday, 17 April 2023

17 April - Kumamoto

It was a leisurely start to the day today, with a very nice hotel breakfast to kick it off. The breakfast area was surrounded by shelves holding a number of high quality architecture and design books which were interesting to flip through. 

We got underway soon after 9am by walking to Suizenji Jojuen Gardens, quite a distance from our hotel. It was very pleasant to be out strolling on a warm sunny day and with only a simple itinerary for the next 8 hours. We could happily pace ourselves and poke around in any interesting little shops we might come across. 

Suizenji Jojuen Gardens were begun in 1632 and started life as a Buddhist temple and tea retreat. It was completed in 1671 and the garden you can see today is basically the same as it was in 1671. The ponds inside the garden are fed by spring water from Mt Aso. The first thing we come upon when entering the garden is a small thatched building currently used as a tea house. It was used in the early 1600s for a master to orally pass down highly regarded poetry to his disciple. The initiation of the poems was, in this instance, being passed onto Prince Toshihito, the younger brother of the Emperor. It is now the only existing building in Japan that contains a room for this specific purpose, and as such is a national treasure. Quite amazing! Now used as a teahouse, where one can sit and contemplate the beautiful gardens all around, it the perfect place to absorb the serenity of the site. We felt we must enjoy the  experience and indulge in a cup of frothy matcha tea and a sweet. We sat down on the allocated mat and were served in Japanese style. It was a wonderful moment.

Suizenji Jojuen Gardens


The building now used as a teahouse

Enjoying our delicately served cup of green tea and a Japanese sweet

Note the replica Mt Fuji towards the rear

These azalea blossoms are on the same bush


A Japanese couple sat down on the adjacent mat and immediately started asking us questions, e.g. where we were from, why we came to Japan and so on. They were very interested and keen to keep chatting. When we finally moved on, we strolled along the various paths, taking in the shrine, statues to Hosokawa clan lords, shaped trees with gardeners carefully pruning them, colourful carp in the ponds, special white turtles and flowering plants. The trees were incredibly sculpted, and no doubt had been very carefully trimmed in bonsai fashion by generations of gardeners.




On the walk back into town we stopped off at a supermarket to buy an ice-cream for lunch. It is not acceptable to walk around either eating or drinking, and it is expected you either consume your goods outside the shop, where sometimes seating is provided, in your car or take it home. We were leaning against a rail enjoying our ice-creams when a little old Japanese woman tottered past us clearly keen to engage us in conversation. We had no idea what she was saying but as she pointed to the sunny sky and our ice-creams so we guess she was saying it was great weather to enjoy them. She kept smiling and talking and then happily waved at us when she decided to move on.

As John was taking a photo of one of the tiny kei-cars he likes, a young Japanese man came up to us to say hi. He wanted to know why we would take a photo of the car? Like all the other Japanese we have engaged with, he was very friendly and wished us a very good day. 

John is particularly enjoying the variety of kei-cars on the road. They are wonderful little lego-like cars, popular because they are tax-free but also ideal for parking in small carparks.

Parking for little cars only.

The centre of Kumamoto boasts Kumamoto Castle, said to be one of the three top castles in Japan. This is one of the reasons we came here, after the Suizenji Jojuen Gardens. The castle was built in 1601-1607 and was the seat of power of the Kato clan, then the Hosokawa Clan. In 1871, soon after the Meiji government superseded samurai rule in Japan, the Satsuma Rebellion, Japan's last internal war, broke out here. Kumamoto Castle was the site of the final battle between 20,000 samurai and the ruling Meiji government. After this time the Meiji restoration oversaw the rapid industrialisation and modernisation of Japan.

In the Satsuma Rebellion the castle was dealt a serious blow with major fires destroying both keeps, which were only reconstructed in the 1960s, in concrete! There was a massive earthquake in 2016. in which large portions of the some of the defensive walls and also structures within the castle complex fell down, including parts of the castle. Huge efforts of restoration have gone on since and the grounds are now open to the public again, albeit with a skywalk to gain access.

It was well worth the visit. A bit of a bonus was a group of three "samurai" doing a bit of a performance as we left.



Dinner was an amazingly quick affair. We wouldn't have been out of our room for more than 20 minutes! We wanted to try the locally-famous Kumamoto ramen - noodles in a rich pork-bone broth - and had found a place just 2 doors away. Everything is ready, so it just needed assembling, and it was indeed rich and delicious.

Off to begin our walk tomorrow. Can't wait. It will probably be easier than the walking we have done so far - 202 kilometres in 13 days!